Benefits, Side Effects, and More

If you struggle with brown spots, hyperpigmentation, and/or stubborn post-breakout marks, kojic acid may just be the answer to your prayers. The internet is buzzing over whether or not this ingredient works and is safe to use, so we put together a comprehensive guide on everything you need to know before picking up a kojic acid-infused serum to include in your nightly regime.

What Is Kojic Acid?

Kojic acid is a chemical derived from mushrooms, but it can also be created during the sake-brewing process from fermented rice.

Because of its ability to really penetrate the layers of your skin and stop the production of melanin, kojic acid is usually sought out as a dark spot and age-spot-fading treatment and is often considered a less aggressive answer to hydroquinone.

According to Dr. Jennifer MacGregor, a Board-Certified Dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology, it can be used as a skin brightener and even on produce to prevent browning. "It is a popular skincare ingredient because it is a well-known and studied inhibitor of tyrosinase (the melanin-forming enzyme) in the skin.

Is Kojic Acid Safe for Skin?

Despite its "acid" moniker, kojic acid is safe to use — though we wouldn't recommend any of the products designed to completely lighten your complexion as your overall skin tone shouldn't be tampered with; it will eventually shift back to its natural state once you discontinue use. Plus, doing so with excess amounts of the ingredient can cause some serious irritation. Instead, you should use kojic acid-infused products to fade discoloration that wasn't originally on your skin, like age spots, sun spots, or those obnoxious post-breakout marks.

"Kojic acid has mild antioxidant, antimicrobial, and exfoliating properties," Dr. MacGregor tells InStyle. "It's safe and well-tolerated on the face and body even by the most sensitive skin types, so is a great option if you don't want to use (or can't tolerate) ingredients like hydroquinone or retinoids." She adds that a serum or pad infused with kojic acid can be used once to twice a day, depending on the concentration of kojic acid and the product's other ingredients.

Of course, as with any product, there is always a risk of personal irritation or allergic reaction. Dr. MacGregor stresses the importance of using a mineral sunscreen along with any kojic acid product because, honestly, what good is a brightening cream if you just reverse the treatment and allow sun spots to form? Plus, kojic acid is a mild exfoliant, meaning your skin can become more sensitive to the sun after using it.

Who Should Use Kojic Acid-Infused Products?

If you tend to have an uneven and pigmented complexion, kojic acid could be very beneficial to you. "Kojic acid is a great ingredient to add for those battling pigment of any kind," says Dr. MacGregor. "It works well on pigmentation from sun damage, melasma, or the common post-inflammatory pigmentation, dark spots that occur after acne, bug bites, or injuries." She adds that it could even improve under eye circles that are a result of hyperpigmentation. (Though it won't do much for "puffiness, hollowing, or thin skin with visible blood vessels.")

How Can I Incorporate Kojic Acid Into My Skincare Routine?

"For those with acne or melasma that tend to get brown spots from every little acne bump or scratch, it's an easy ingredient to incorporate daily — usually as a brightening pad in combination with other brighteners and antioxidants." Dr. MacGregor says her favorite kojic acid treatment is Union Square Laser Dermatology's popular La Suite Skin Tone Enhancement Therapy Pads ($75). As for some of our favorites? Check them out below.

Of course, it's best to consult a dermatologist for which product and regimen is best for your skin. Depending on your treatment of choice, kojic acid can be used on your skin in a variety of forms — from potent serums to one-and-done face masks.

Mario Badescu Brightening Mask

Its name may be slightly off-putting, but Mario Badescu's Whitening Mask actually helps to even out your skin tone rather than lighten it. The kojic acid and licorice help to lighten and reduce pigmentation, like scarring from acne.

La Roche-Posay 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum

Maybe you prefer an overnight treatment that your skin can really soak up. If so, try this La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum to improve your skin's clarity and minimize uneven spots.

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