How to Treat Damaged Nail Beds After Acrylics

As a rule, when nails are stressed—like when you get acrylics—they crack. If your nail health wasn't up to par before acrylics, or you went to a salon that was careless about how they applied or removed them, dealing with damage afterward is nearly inevitable. Your nails may be thin, brittle, and even sore to the touch. Fortunately, there are ways to repair your damaged nail bed and gain healthy, strong nails.

It's fairly easy to mend damaged tips, as well as prevent them from even happening in the first place. So if you're a fan of having acrylics with your jelly nail polish manicure, rest assured that you don't have to say goodbye for good. We spoke with nail experts Amy Ling Lin, Candice Idehen, and Fleury Rose to find out why your nails get damaged in the first place, and how to safely wear acrylics sans damage. 

Meet the expert

Read on for advice on healing your nails after having acrylics, all from top nail pros.

How Acrylics Can Damage Your Natural Nails

Acrylics aren't inherently bad for your nails, but they can be if not removed properly. According to Lin, getting acrylics begins by filing your natural nails and applying a primer. Then, an acrylic nail is placed on top. Eventually, the nails will have to be taken off—and this is where the damage can happen.

There are two ways to remove acrylics, and Lin explains that "there is an extremely high chance that either of these removal processes can and will damage your nail bed." First, you can soak nails in an acetone-based solution—which can weaken them by drying them out. You can also remove acrylics via e-file—which can weaken nails by removing too many layers.

You're not guaranteed to see damage after a set of acrylics as there are many different factors at play—but it can happen as a result of the following:

Improper Nail Technique

"The condition of the natural nail after acrylic nail removal varies greatly depending on the skill level of the technician who's applied it, as well as the quality of the product used," says Rose. If a nail technician doesn't know what they're doing, they may file your nails improperly, creating thin and brittle nail beds, explains Idehen.

"Usually, your nails hurt to the touch and are visibly damaged," Idehen says. "They may be extremely thin and flexible. Another sign is if they begin to break easily or tear." Chipping, flaking, and indentations or grooves are also results of improper nail technique.

Harsh Products

Another source of nail damage may come from the salon's products. Idehen says there is one substance that is banned in the U.S. because of the damage it causes, but some salons still use it. "MMA Methyl Methacrylate causes damage to the natural nail because of its prep and adhesion process," she says. Idehen encourages those getting acrylics to do their research, find reputable salons, and splurge on better services.

Peeling Off Your Acrylics

Damage can also be a result of peeling off your acrylics, which Idehen strongly urges you to resist doing. "When you peel off acrylic or any other enhancement, for that matter, you take off several layers of your natural nail with it," says Idehen.

How to Repair Damage from Acrylic Nails

At-Home Treatments

To nurse nails back to health, try a nail repair kit, which can be purchased at the drugstore or online. Alternatively, you can try a DIY solution. "Using olive oil works wonders in restoring hydration to the nail," says Idehen. A nail strengthening treatment, like OPI's Nail Envy, will bring you similar results, she adds.

Idehen recommends applying a nail-strengthening product every first, third, fifth, and seventh day of the week. At the end of the week, she says to remove it and start the process again.

Professional Treatments

If your nails are seriously damaged, at-home treatments might not be enough. Idehen recommends receiving a professional treatment like the IBX Nail Strengthening System. "It's like a keratin treatment for your nails," Idehen says. "It uses protein and hydrating oils to fill in all the areas of damage on your nail, resulting in a much healthier nail even after one service."

Wait It Out

All our pros agree that your nails could be nursed back to health, without a doubt, but it'll take time. Your damaged nail needs to grow out completely so that it can be replaced with a healthy nail. While you wait, stick to regular nail polish, get regimented about moisturizing with cuticle oils, and stay away from acrylics. When in doubt, go see a pro for their advice.

How to Prevent Future Damage

Even though acrylics can cause nail damage, you don't have to give up on them for good. It's all about finding the right salon with experts who will take care of your nails. You also have to resist the urge to pick and peel them off yourself.

"Usually, these types of salons are going to charge a premium or may be run by an independent nail tech who has opted out of the traditional salon setting so that she can spend the extra time caring for the natural nail while providing services," says Idehen.

While this may cost you a bit more money, it's worth it if it means keeping your nails from being damaged. She also suggests finding a salon that uses Apres Gel-X, a soft gel extension system. "It will give you a similar look and feel with more versatility," says Idehen.

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